If your watching the news about Pakistan right now your probably shaking your head thinking about what a terrible place it must be. For me to the news is quite upsetting but possibly for different reasons.  It got me thinking and I worry about all my friends there. Worry about what it’s like to try and make a normal business work in these times. Especially all my friends working in tourism, trying to run a hotel, work as a guide, run a restaurant or travel agency. Or just raise a family and live a normal life. But you know, life does go on and the Pakistani’s I know are resilient and tough, they will continue to make the best of their situation, they won’t get discouraged.

If you know me you may have heard this before but it deserves to be said. -My experience over the past 3 years has shown that Pakistani people are some of the warmest most hospitable and welcoming on earth. Their faith in Islam is genuine, deep, and admirable; it is the root of who they are. Their dedication to family and friends is inspiring and heartwarming. Their concern for foreign guests has to be seen to be believed. To think that my Pakistani friends would risk their own safety and well being for me is something I’ve grown accustomed to. To realize they would do the same for a stranger may be surprising but it’s not untrue.

What more can I say? I can’t summarize the problem or the solution. But when I think that someone out there might be watching the news and get the impression that Pakistan is a land full of crazy terrorists with a hate for outsiders I’m upset. Holding that kind of view is as hurtful to my friends there as the terror strikes and fighting is. So if you get anything from this or from reading my stories in the past just realize it is a such a small minority causing the problems you read about. The majority and in my experience all the Pakistani’s I’ve met are wonderful, compassionate, moral, hardworking people. Please think good thoughts about them during this time.

I few words is all I have and it feels like I don’t do much to help all those people who have helped me. We paragliders often float through don’t we?  Going to foreign lands with our wings, often flying in far off places which are remote and poor. It’s romantic and adventurous but selfish; mostly we just leave without giving much back or helping those we come across. I’ve been inspired by a paragliding friend recently who’s doing something different, she’s making an effort to help, and in a really interesting way.

Anyone in the market for a diamond ring? Please have a look, this is really worth it!

http://www.committedtotheworld.org/index.html

On the 24th of August I needed to make the journey from Hunza to Booni so I could ship some O2 equipment to Fernando in Islamabad who was helping organize Ramon Morillas Paramoter expedition. First day I flew to my favorite toplanding called Bar. First time using the Sup Air windskirt, nice feel and adds warmth.

On the 25th I deviated from my usual route and made an interesting decision.

I thought that was a big glacier, then I saw this one

I landed near the Borroghill pass. The next day there was a long walk 10.5hrs to get to Lahst, when I was real tired this kid on a donkey came by, took my bag and helped me out.

Theres a bit more to it than that so I’m working on a story for Parapente magazine to tell it!

Rest Day, Fly, fly fly, Rest. Fly, fly fly. Oh my god what a life this is and how lucky I am to have been teleported to a different dimension where all that I dream is possible!!!

Very unusual it got stable here in Pakistan, real stable, no clouds at all and an inversion at 5200m. Hiked up to high launch with Christian Rankl and flew together to a new bivy site a little behind Chalt.

This is what a bivy site is supposed to look like. Grassy big landing, Spring water and wood withing a 15 min walk. And an easy stress free take-off above a huge SE facing trigger. Oh and the elevation- 4100meters - Christian this is in reference to your pick of Bivy spot last time!

The next day it’s still stable and my idea to fly out and return to the west are canceled, Chris has to go to Gilgit to get some money from his bank card, we fly together 20km to the south.

And get this.. I saw a group of Ibex!! As I was soaring a cliff face I heard rockfall, they were spooked by my presence and literally running up a cliff, I came into some bumpy lift at the time and didn’t get very close. Chris says in Austria you have to be careful because paragliders can scare them so badly they might fall down and get hurt. Great moment although brief. Incredible to glimpse wild animals in their element.

As I came towards Gilgit and Chris went to land clouds were forming on the South and East sides of Rakaposhi. “What the hell maybe today is the day to try and circumnavigate it,” I thought.

A cloud street led me easily between Rakaposhi        and Diran (both 7000+meter mountains) the pass is 5300m and heres the picture… not very interesting to look at but surely interesting at the time!! Why?

Because this is the the way I came in.. and would have to go out if it didn’t work! (looking South, Rakaposhi on the Right Side)

Like so many days here the wind is light and lift is everywhere, I easily climb out under a gentle cumulus. This is a photo of the East face of Rakaposhi and a Glacier I was seeing for the first time.

Ahh stress levels lower and I’m relaxed flying back. The cumulus forming above me in the wingtip photo is directly above my head.

Saddle between Rakaposhi and Diran. Toplanding after flight

Back at camp I thought it was time to relax and enjoy the location, however when I went to gather wood tragedy struck… Cow’s rampaged through my things!

The thing they found most tasty was a beautiful satellite photo map which cost 1600 rupees ($20)! Totally consumed, that and my liner glove and over-mitt for my right hand… in one of those cows stomachs. Other than a bit of urine and manure and cow saliva spread over all the rest of my gear is intact.

But it’s a reminder that the dangers and difficulties faced here in Pakistan are not what you would think.

And so for a parting shot here’s Christian showing us his stool sample. This is a necessary test to properly diagnois what kind of nastys are living in his stomach and which would be the proper antibiotic to treat it.

Ahhh the joys of Travel!!!!

“That’s great! This is just what you wanted” said my Dad as I was preparing to leave the hotel and share the jeep ride to the Eagles Nest take-off in Hunza with 3 friends. Phone calls are cheap to the US and I’ve been talking to my Dad as he plans for his trip here this September. He reminded me that for the last 2 years I’ve been complaining about not having people to fly with and how this year I’ve had people company all year. Most recently Christian “Taliban” Rankl and Christian “The Machine” Wasserbauer from Austria.

That’s “The Machine” on the left and “Taliban” or Old Chris on the right, see why we call him “Taliban” and see the hint of madness in his eye? Photo is on the roof of the Darbar Hotel after we all bombed out and landed there the 9th. On the 10th we fly together to the Shimshal valley. Staying together is tricky without radios and with difference performance of gliders.

Me over Passu on the way to Shimshal

Once in the Shimshal valley there’s no more vegetation, the Glaciers get bigger and the mountains more inhospitable.

Weeee!!! flying with other people is fun! “Hey Chris lets land here!” I shout in a thermal. “10km further” the bearded one replys. “Ok! I follow you!” and then I follow, assuming he’s seen a good spot and looking for one myself. Young Christian Wasserbauer gets separated and we lose him. He’s to land in that valley on the right side of the picture and have an 11 hr walk to the town of Shimshal the following day (we communicate with text messages on our Sat phones in the evening).

Chris picks a spot and lands. I follow him in.

“What the F!!! is this?” We’ve just landed in a small snow field at over 5200meters!!! Who the H!!! lands up here with the intention to camp???!!

2 options for gear. Bring sleeping bag and pad and sleep under glider. Or bring tent instead of bag. Either way it wasn’t the cold or rocks that were a problem, more that I wasn’t acclimated to the altitude. Beautiful night sky I got to know very well though.

mmm breakfast

10am time to launch. And how is it to launch in the thin air? light upslope breeze, reverse, correct, turn, load and go. Addict 2 has been great to launch and land in the higher elevations, just gotta commit to the run over the blocky talus! Brilliant

Crossing From Shimshal to Ghujerab valley I thought was to be the crux, and though over a high glacier field feeling quite commiting a little bit of lift made it easy. That and seeing Chris below on his 1-2 glider I couldn’t help feeling more relaxed. Once in the Ghujerab I though it would be smooth sailing but the air was turbulent and not fun, we pushed into a head wind all the way out but had plenty of lift. Getting close to Sost we were totally shut down, climbs to over 6500 and full bar couldn’t make progress into a headwind and sustained 7m/s sink. So we landed a short hike from the KKH and hitched into town to spend the night before returning to Karimabad the next day.

Landing at the end of the flight I’m shattered.. could be a five hour flight mostly over 6000 after a sleepless night? hhmmm…. thanks Chris

Riding back along the KKH to Karimabad is our rest day. Another 3 day flying adventure begins the following day….

I just came across this great story about the Shandur Polo Festival. Fernando, Christian Rankl and myself attended. Christian “The Machine” Wasserbauer flew over but didn’t land because he doesn’t like crowds. Here’s a nice shot of me flying in just before the final Match (Thanks to Gloria a fellow tourist attended the event). I could tell you more about our story but I like the writing by Declan Walsh so just take a second to read his story, click on his name to read more of his stories and the recent death of Baitullah Mehsud in a drone strike. Then click here to see my video of flying to the Shandur Festival in 2007.

In the middle of war, a game of polo breaks out in Pakistan

Despite fears of a Taliban attack, high in Pakistan’s Hindu Kush, a historic sporting tournament carried on regardless

Story by Declan Walsh guardian.co.uk, Friday 10th July 2009

The rival sides climbed through the Hindu Kush like medieval armies, horse-mounted warriors leading thousands of fanatical followers, to do battle on a grassy highland arena.

But this epic spectacle, which unfolded in Pakistan’s North West Frontier province this week, was a matter of sport, not war. And despite threats of dire violence, there wasn’t a Taliban fighter in sight.

Every summer polo teams from the mountain districts of Chitral and Gilgit converge on the Shandur Pass, a spectacular natural stadium surrounded by snow-sprinkled peaks which, at an altitude of over 12,000ft, is the world’s highest polo ground.

The tournament dates back to the 1930s, when a British officer named Cobb formalised a centuries-old sporting rivalry. “The game of kings and the king of games,” reads the sign at the entrance to Shandur.

It remains a rambunctious, impassioned affair. Locals claim to have invented polo and their version – known as “freestyle” polo – has little of the money, pomp or indeed rules of the more genteel game played at Ascot.

The riders, rugged mountain men on sweat-soaked horses, thunder down the pitch, clinging precariously to their saddles and wielding mallets like sabres. Clashing, they swing their mallets like scythes, hitting man as often as ball.

Assistants dash into the fray, risking injury to replace lost or smashed mallets. Noses are bloodied, horses tumble and, as the ball cannons towards the goal, the crowd rises to frenzied cheers.

But if the rules haven’t changed in decades, circumstances have on the frontier. And this year the tournament was nearly cancelled.

Chitral is an island of peace in a province at war. In districts on every side – Dir, Swat and across the border in Afghanistan – Pakistani and western troops are battling the Taliban. The violence hasn’t spread to Chitral for partly ethnic reasons – it has a minority Pashtun population.

But the idyllic valley has not entirely escaped the bitter crosswinds. Over the past year at least 20 Chitrali paramilitary soldiers have been killed in fighting elsewhere. Green Pakistani flags flutter outside houses in a mark of the bereaved.

Last week the district mayor, Maghfirat Shah, called on the government to scrap the festival, arguing it was disrespectful to the slain soldiers. Critics accused him of an ideological agenda: the mayor is a member of a religious political party that has virulently opposed the military operation.

At a public rally days later his supporters issued a more sinister warning: that there could be a Taliban suicide attack. After intense backroom talks, and the deployment of extra security, the organisers prevailed.

“They are just creating a fear factor,” said Siraj ul Mulk, a member of the princely family of Chitral. “It’s precisely because of distractions like this that our people are not falling prey to the Taliban.”

In the end the crowd was smaller than previous years but equally fervent. A small tented city sprung up around the pitch, where 200 foreigners joined thousands of locals. The sponsors, a mobile phone company, provided Blackberry coverage.

And on the eve of the final, a full moon hovered in the starry sky as young men, some intoxicated, jigged and twirled to traditional, drum-driven music into the small hours.

The players, meanwhile, tried to sleep. Most are hardy amateurs – soldiers, teachers, policemen and watchmen, some in their 50s, few earning more than £80 a month. But the best are feted with premier league-style adulation.

“If they win, the people give them their hearts,” said Mazar Ahmed, a hoarse 19-year-old Gilgit fan. “For us, this is like the World Cup and 20/20 cricket all in one.”

The play holds dangers for man and animal. Bloodied faces are a common sight; the Gilgit captain, Meraj Alum, has a 10-stitch scar across his head. Yet he refuses to wear a helmet. “Gets in the way,” he explained.

For their steeds, though, the machismo borders on cruelty. Each horse must play a full 50 minutes – in regular polo they change every seven-and-a-half minutes – and, for some, the extreme altitude is too much. On Wednesday one horse collapsed of a heart attack and died. “It’s a bad rule,” admitted ul Mulk. “It should be changed.”

No major politician turned up for the final so the chief guest was General Tariq Khan, the straight-talking head of the Frontier Corps paramilitary force. He doused any suggestion the tournament should end. “This is typical of these people with beards,” he said of the polo opposition. “Men are dying because of people like them.”

In the end Chitral won the final, thrashing Gilgit by 10 goals to two – their fourth victory in a row. But there was one surprise – a visit from the rejectionist mayor, Maghfirat Shah.

He appeared to have a change of heart, or a recognition of reality. “A great game,” he said in a short half-time speech, “that sends a positive signal to the world.”

guardian.co.uk © Guardian News and Media Limited 2009

My name is Brad Sander and today I am 34 years old. That’s a surprise to me too. When did it become the end of July and when did I get to be in my mid 30’s, and what am I doing updating this blog on my birthday??
There is so much to write about from June and July here in Pakistan and it’s not getting done because it’s still flyable, I have to squeeze out something quick and then pack some food for tomorrow.

The news is this, the area of Pakistan where my friends and I are flying  is safe.  We read news of military operations in Swat and Waziristan, but they seem as distant to me as they must to my friends and family on the other side of the world. The Hindukush Mountains are proving to have huge potential for motivated pilots and amazing logistical support from incredible locals. 2 groups have done some amazing things this season and shown that with the right skills and preparation this incredible site yields huge rewards. Check out Demian, Roman and Rufo at http://pakpara2009.blogspot.com/ and especially Demian’s tracks  http://www.xcontest.org/world/en/pilots/detail:dimbo his energy and endurance are to be marvelled at.

Christian and Christian 2 Austrians friends have a blog here http://christianrankl.blogspot.com from their trip from North India to Pakistan and on to Kyrgystan, it is in German but the pictures are nice.

As for what I’ve done a few recent highlights-
1) Tandem flight from Chitral to Booni so I didn’t have to take a jeep. A great return after leaving under difficult circumstances last September.
2) Being able to attend the Shandur polo festival after a miraculous recovery from a mysterious chest pain. Being able to fly there for the second time was as unique as the first but not as impressive as Christians flight from Yarkhun Lasht to Booni and then to Shandur the same day! (150km)
3) A 7 day out and back bivy flight from Booni to Karimabad top landing all the way. During which I made a new crossing of Daintar Pass, was lucky to be in Karimabad for the July 11th celebration of the Aga Khan’s innaguration (local people lit fires on the hillside and rolled burning tires down vertical cliffs). Then after getting stuck not being able to cross Daintar pass from the opposite direction I spent 2 days learning to make goat butter with some incredible shepards while waiting out rain (these same shepards Demian and Roman had stayed with only a week before!)
4) With one rest day Fernando and I set off on a tandem bivy adventure but never used our food because we stayed with great locals in the Yarkhun valley  and ended by spending a night in Mastuj with Colonel Kuswanqh Ul Mulk (a 96 year old with an incredible spirit and amazing life, sharing a few moments with him was an inspiration)

I’d like to thank Sup Air for sponsoring me with a Altirando XP harness. This was my choice of the best suited to the flying I’m doing and indeed both Christians and Roman are using the same model.

The Chapursan valley is a place I’ve wanted to visit for a few years. Recently at the internet cafe in Hunza I met a man from this valley and since then things fell into place for a trip there. Alam Jan Dario was featured in Greg Mortenson’s book “Three Cups of Tea” If  you haven’t read it it’s a great story about one man’s mission to make a difference by providing education in remote areas of Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Around the corner from Hunza near Passu, Addict 2 with Batura Glacier. Flying with Oriol (Spain) and Brendan (Scotland). Brendan just arrived, it’s his second day flying in Pakistan.

Looking South back toward Passu, we got out just in time and head toward the blue hole and Charpursan valley north of us. Just after I get a strong climb, sustained 9m/s, to over 6800 meters.

Chapursan valley on the left. The wind is blowing 30 km in the valley, the question… which direction? Answer- downvalley. I knew this would be the case based on Phillipe Nodet’s experience and talking with Alam Jan, I just didn’t expect it to extend this far from the glaciers at the head of the Valley. We land 10km short of goal and don’t get to meet with Alam.

The cool experience begins after we land. The Wakhi people here are very friendly and hospitable. They are curious, supportive and helpful. Soon we are invited to stay with a family for the night and will catch a bus out in the morning.

Brendan showing pictures to our host who speaks perfect English and is an IT teacher in a neighboring valley. We are given tea, local bread (chapati) and potatoes for dinner. The guesthouse is furnished with bedding and very comfortable. Although we wake up on time the only daily bus is early and we decide to start walking as there is no other transport.

The valley is beautiful but at 3100 meters not good for crop diversity. There are no fruit trees as in Hunza. There is only wheat and potatoes. You can see the care and attention people put into their lives here reflected in everything. From the way we are greeted to how they treat each other to the meticulous care in the fields and buildings.

6 hrs later we’re getting tired, another family invites us for tea and chapati. The people here are very poor but something I’ve noticed is that people who have very little are the most generous. They give us the best of what they have and won’t accept any money in exchange, this is their culture.

I see a sign for one of Greg Mortensons schools, funded by CAI, we’re tired so we don’t take the diversion to have a look but it’s a nice connection. After 7.5 hrs walking luckily a truck comes by and gives us a free lift to the next town. We’re back in Hunza at the end of a long day!

Out and back to the West the next flight.

“Brendan, the clouds are not a problem”, I respond to his question decisively because I think it’s good to be decisive when talking on the radio… then I wonder.

But indeed the development is not widespread and it’s safe to fly the whole day. Here is a view looking south from Gilgit, these mountains have never been flown!

Oriol makes it back to Karimabad, Brendan stays in the Ishkoman valley with a local family who takes him fishing and has trout for dinner. I land a bit short because I’m overly conservative about dodging the fallout. 119km triangle 6.5hrs

This is the north face of Rakaposhi (7778m). If you come to Hunza you will get to know it well as the view dominates town. If you stay for a while you’ll get a chance at the classic route from Hunza.

This is the group of friends flying in Pakistan now, Left to Right Brad Sander, Matt Senior, Sam Moffet, Oriol Fernandez, Patrick Troubet, Fernando Rodrigo.

On May 17th Matt, Oriol Patrick and I flew a 100km triangle together which seems the obvious classic route from Hunza. Base was low at 5700m but the climbs were plentifull and easy to find. Comunicating on the radio with big gloves, staying warm, and keeping track of each other in the midst of some very large terrain proved the biggest challenges.   Here’s Matt during the flight.

And this is me gliding back along the North face of Rakaposhi. Thanks for the photo Oriol!

The same place, we trade positions.

Oriol coming back to Karimabad to land at the end of the day, Baltit Fort.

There’s much more, I think everyone who has come has had the most amazing flights of their lives. There is simply no where that compares to Pakistan for flying. We’ve received a warm welcome and had no troubles in the country at all. Sadly the situation has not been so good for many people in Swat where there has been fighting between the Army and Taliban in the past few weeks. Swat is not far in a straight line but it seems like a different world compared to Hunza.

It’s a great feeling to know that I’m exactly where I’m supposed to be doing exactly what I’m supposed to be doing.  I’m lucky because of how often I’ve had this feeling the last few years. May of 2007 I realized quite clearly after my first flight in Pakistan that my future was here and I felt a strong desire to share this experience with others. As I continue to live out my dreams the rewards are… more than I imagined.

I’m back in Pakistan with 5 other pilots. It is really cool to share their experience as they have their first taste of this amazing culture and are totally blown away by the flying. I’ll be documenting our story here as it happens. Some photos.

Crossing the Wagah border between India and Pakistan, always a fun walk in the heat. My Kiwi friend Matt was smart enough to bring an umbrella for shade, and I thought I was prepared.

Oriol with Spantik (Golden Peak) behind

A local kid in Hunza had crafted this “paraglider” and was going to jump off a 5 meter wall to test it. Manzoor (in the red hat) called us to intervene. Patrick (a French paragliding instructor in the green shirt) gives a little advice, “Perhaps you should practice on a gentle grassy slope.”  John Silvester I blame you!

Their names are Matt and Oriol, they’ve done something very bad. Report them to the local authorities. —                               On launch in Hunza, Ladyfinger in the background.

Fernando was the Spanish pilot I came to Pakistan with in 2007. He’s been working for the last 2 years, luckily he’s come to his senses quit work and come traveling. It promises to be an amazing summer.

I’ll be posting my flights here http://www.xcontest.org/world/en/pilots/detail:bradsander

It’s spring in the Indian Himalaya and for me there is no where more amazing to be flying, today was a nice 5 hour flight and tour of the area with a visit to Dharmsala and back, base was a pleasant 4900m.

To catch up first I have to give a big congratulations to my friend Debu Choudhury who recently set the Indian distance record from Bir at 176km and then days later broke it  by doing 211km  on the 14th of April. Have a look at http://www.xcontest.org/world/en/flights/detail:drdebu/14.4.2009/05:07

Second I just participated in an amazing adventure. Across Himalaya is the name of an expedition to fly through the Indian Himalaya to the border of Nepal in 12 days. With a bit of rain and political concerns hindering the start we moved location to the western edge of the Dhula Dhar range in Himachel Pradesh and flew to within 20km of the Nepal border. 8 days of flying, almost 500km along a route few have flown. So few in fact I think I can name them: Bob Drury and John Silvester in 1997. Phillipe Nodet and Julian Wirtz in 200? and Luc Armant on his 1000km trip past Kathmandu in 2007. If you know of more please tell me I’m interested to learn as much as I can about the flying history here. Basically it’s wild terrain and incredible flying with opportunities to top land and camp all along the route. There is road access over most valleys and it’s quite doable.

There were 7 pilots in our group, the dream and initive was from Adie Kumar. I was the most experienced in the Himalayas but least experienced in terms of flying time. It was an incredible experience, one that I can remember so many details and images of each unique day… I guess if there’s something I can say from it that other pilots will hear it’s that it’s ok to walk down no matter the situation or pressure involved. We all need to know our limits and if we go beyond them it’s ok to land and walk down!

What a trip and what and adventure, I’m already planning for next spring! You can see more on this webpage

http://acrosshimalaya.org/ and some of my track logs here http://www.xcontest.org/world/en/pilots/detail:bradsander

Excited at the prospect of what this new day will bring.

My Track Log