The Chapursan valley is a place I’ve wanted to visit for a few years. Recently at the internet cafe in Hunza I met a man from this valley and since then things fell into place for a trip there. Alam Jan Dario was featured in Greg Mortenson’s book “Three Cups of Tea” If  you haven’t read it it’s a great story about one man’s mission to make a difference by providing education in remote areas of Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Around the corner from Hunza near Passu, Addict 2 with Batura Glacier. Flying with Oriol (Spain) and Brendan (Scotland). Brendan just arrived, it’s his second day flying in Pakistan.

Looking South back toward Passu, we got out just in time and head toward the blue hole and Charpursan valley north of us. Just after I get a strong climb, sustained 9m/s, to over 6800 meters.

Chapursan valley on the left. The wind is blowing 30 km in the valley, the question… which direction? Answer- downvalley. I knew this would be the case based on Phillipe Nodet’s experience and talking with Alam Jan, I just didn’t expect it to extend this far from the glaciers at the head of the Valley. We land 10km short of goal and don’t get to meet with Alam.

The cool experience begins after we land. The Wakhi people here are very friendly and hospitable. They are curious, supportive and helpful. Soon we are invited to stay with a family for the night and will catch a bus out in the morning.

Brendan showing pictures to our host who speaks perfect English and is an IT teacher in a neighboring valley. We are given tea, local bread (chapati) and potatoes for dinner. The guesthouse is furnished with bedding and very comfortable. Although we wake up on time the only daily bus is early and we decide to start walking as there is no other transport.

The valley is beautiful but at 3100 meters not good for crop diversity. There are no fruit trees as in Hunza. There is only wheat and potatoes. You can see the care and attention people put into their lives here reflected in everything. From the way we are greeted to how they treat each other to the meticulous care in the fields and buildings.

6 hrs later we’re getting tired, another family invites us for tea and chapati. The people here are very poor but something I’ve noticed is that people who have very little are the most generous. They give us the best of what they have and won’t accept any money in exchange, this is their culture.

I see a sign for one of Greg Mortensons schools, funded by CAI, we’re tired so we don’t take the diversion to have a look but it’s a nice connection. After 7.5 hrs walking luckily a truck comes by and gives us a free lift to the next town. We’re back in Hunza at the end of a long day!

Out and back to the West the next flight.

“Brendan, the clouds are not a problem”, I respond to his question decisively because I think it’s good to be decisive when talking on the radio… then I wonder.

But indeed the development is not widespread and it’s safe to fly the whole day. Here is a view looking south from Gilgit, these mountains have never been flown!

Oriol makes it back to Karimabad, Brendan stays in the Ishkoman valley with a local family who takes him fishing and has trout for dinner. I land a bit short because I’m overly conservative about dodging the fallout. 119km triangle 6.5hrs